I was just going to clean the engine compartment and touch up the paint when I got peer pressured in to removing the engine. Thanks Charlie!
With the crossmember exposed, I noticed that it is not gray like the later cars and obviously not black as the Jensen built cars. I do know of about 20 code 46 red 1800 cars that got matching red cross members but I have not heard of any other colors. Until now…
Looks to me that this cross member was painted in the same color as the car. I took a lot of pictures to document this.
Of course, when you are this far in to it, I might as well remove the damn cross member from the body! Thanks Charlie!
The bottom of the car looks very tidy so this would make for a nice detail, just more work for me!
This car is still sporting the old style brakes. These were on cars up to chassis number 10,000 but rotors are no longer available. These rotors are worn below thickness specification so I am installing the newer style rotors.
This means the rotors, calipers, caliper brackets and backing plates has to come from a newer car.
The newer brake components were recycled from a very rusted 1964 1800S, chassis number 10764. Incidentally, this code 46 red car had a red cross member.
There is a lot of tension with the spring still in place. Disassembling this in the wrong order can result in decapitation and that would not be good.
Since I am going to replace these springs anyway, I decided to fire up the ‘ol plasma cutter.
It cuts through the springs like butter and it’s now safe to remove the a-arms.
Since this car will have stock wheels with skinny ass 165 tyres, I was originally going to leave the ride height stock. Sports cars from the 50’s and 60’s were not exactly low. However, after working on Corky’s car pictured above I changed my mind. Corky’s car had progressive springs and it sat rather low and I like the look.
It is nice to assemble everything with new shiny bolts but don’t like hardware store bolts on my vintage Volvo. Volvo used mostly BUFO brand bolts and for som reason the upper A-arm bolts are made by FONAS.
Some of these early Swedish built cars even used British Rubery Owen bolts.
Also, they used these style of pinch lock nuts, it would just look wrong to install modern nylon lock nuts.
The old hardware looks a bit tired but we can fix that.
Fresh from the plating bath. They spend about 15-20 min so this is not fast production work!
The result is worth the effort. Raw steel on the bottom, plated on top. In preparation for plating, the parts have to be super clean. No grease, no rust. The shinier the hardware is before plating, the better is the result.
Volvo-BUFO Front Suspension Installation Kit!
Like it’s 1963 again.
This is the cross member and A-arms after blasting. You don’t even want to utter the word “moisture” in the room or it will start rusting. It is imperative to get primer on these ASAP. Also, you don’t want to touch the blasted surface with bare hands. The moisture from your hand will leave a print and cause problems after primer and paint is applied.
It looks like Volvo purposely did not paint all of the clutch fork, I am not sure why. Actually, it looks like it was dipped.
Regardless, I painted all of it to prevent corrosion.
Interesting enough, the fork is actually made by Bahco, same company that made some of the factory tools as well as many tools in my toolbox.
Bahco is still around making good tools.
The motorcycle lift became the staging table for finished chassis components.
The Left and Right steering arm looks very similar but have different part numbers. They have a slightly different angle at the tie rod.
“Loaded” lower a-arm.
Spindle with brake shield and steering arms assembled with shiny BUFO bolts and ready to be installed.
Cross member painted.
Originally I thought I assemble the whole suspension on the cross member before installing it on the car. However, it will be rather heave and unruly so I will just leave it at this. It will be easy to add the components on the car.
Next: Paint the engine compartment and assembly.