Let’s restore and assemble the dash.
With the powder coated dash structures, I can begin to add the padding.
I decided to start with the lower dash pad first. I marked and punched out the holes for the switches.
I made these plates from 1/4 inch flat bar in about the same shape as the aluminum inserts. I will use them to press the dash pad in place while being glued.
VP-Autoparts part number 32141010, “Glue for dash pad”. I have heard of folks using different contact cement or other adhesive and some will dissolve the pad material. However, this stuff is white! so I have to be careful not to get on the dash pad.
Mineral spirit works well to remove and glue that may end up on the pad.
Got clamps?
After the glue set up overnight, I am ready for the bottom part. It is held in place by wrapping the material around the edge and securing with clips. I kept the old dash pad so I can see the factory location of the clips.
Some of the clips had some rust on them so I cleaned them up and they got some paint. Tedious work.
VP Autoparts are using the original Volvo tooling to make the new pads. That is a good thing as the fit seems good. However, in 1973, Volvo decided to add lights above the switches on the left side. To do this, Volvo modified the existing tooling and this explains the flat spot above the switches.
The top dash vent trims looked a bit shabby.
After blasting and a coat of semi gloss black, they look new again.
I noticed how the factory used tape to hold the stainless trim in place so I plan to duplicate this.
Test fit of upped dash pad.
The top pad have a lot of excess padding, I just trimmed it back to the edge.
Even with the vent trims in place, I can spy some white foam material in the hole. There are probable very few people that would have a problem with this…but I am one of them.
I used a black marker pen to black out the foam.
Goop on. This is pretty much the only place where I would glue the dash as this is inside the speedometer and tachometer cavity.
I disassembled and cleaned the aluminum trim panel and the stainless surround. Flimsy stuff, one has to be gentle with this.
As cool as this dashboard is, the way it was assembled is kinda cheesy. (technical term) Once the aluminum and stainless trim is in place, it is bent around the corner and pop riveted to the frame.
Oh well, the assembly and production procedures were developed in the late fifties and things were different then.
Since I am using a different steel structure than the one out of the car, I had to do a lot of fine tuning and trimming to make the radio fit right. I just put one gauge in the hole to center the aluminum trim.
The radios in 1800 cars usually used an angle kit and that includes the front trim plate. It was designed to make the radio dip down in the rear to avoid interfering with wiper assembly.
Actually, I would prefer to just install a radio blank plate but the car already have an antenna installed, so I need to have a radio in the dash. Maybe I will convert the radio to Bluetooth in the future.
The overdrive indicator light is different on the early 1800 cars compared to the 122 cars with overdrive. The 1800 style to the left. I think the later 1800 cars got the 122 style light later on.
With new stainless screws, the defroster trims looks good.
All the gauges were refreshed, tested and restored. The oil and coolant temp gauges have new Bourdon pressure tubes. This should not be confused with Bourbon Whiskey, but if you do, it may be more fun.
Eugène Bourdon (1808–1884) was a French watchmaker and engineer. He patented his gauge in France in 1849, and it was widely adopted because of its superior simplicity, linearity, and accuracy.
I zip-tied the tubes to the back so they are stable during the dash install.
Because of the powder coated substructure, I made this grounding daisy chain wire that will ground all gauges to the chassis.
The early cars with Lucas switches also had a different knobs. It was held on by a hexagon shaft and a spring loaded pin. They deteriorated over the years and some even became translucent and most will just fall apart when you remove them.
I ordered replacement knobs but what I got was these uber-shiny plastic knobs. They look like something you get when you buy a press-board made nightstand named Sven at IKEA! No way will I put these on my car!
So…I will use later model switches that have nice knobs. I mentioned this in an earlier article, the early cars said “LIGHTS”, the later cars said “LIGHT”. Who knows why?
Regardless, I will enjoy authentic looking knobs made from genuine European Bakelite. I love the smell of Bakelite in the morning!
Well, there it is. I will install the rest of the switches after the dash is in the car.
In 1962, all the major automobile manufactures got together in a competition for the world’s best looking dashboard. All the big design houses were represented like Michelotti, Pinafarina, Bertone, Ghia etc…and they were pretty cocky.
Then the Swedes rolled in a P1800 with this Pelle Petterson designed dash and all the contenders just went home!
True story…for real?…or maybe not??
